Model T Kits
Spirit Cars offers many different Model T kits and stages to fit your budget, taste and wants. We can add, subtract or sometimes customize the kit if need be. We offer from rolling chassis's to stage 3 kits to our super kits. The super kits are our most complete kit offering everything you need minus the motor/transmission, wheels/tires, drive shaft, glass for windshield, fuel cell and any little accessories you may want like seatbelts, mirrors, and etc. Kits ship truck freight or you are welcome to pick your kit up at our location. If you can get your kit shipped to a business or pickup at nearest truck freight terminal that will be the cheapest route. Kits can be shipped to your home but you will pay between $100-$200 more depending on location. Our online shopping cart will not calculate shipping so you will need to give us a call at 870-425-5900 or send us an email [email protected] and we would be happy to get you a shipping quote. Spirit Cars offers the most complete t-bucket kits on the market today. Titling is available with our kits.
Spirit Cars offers from the 1923 t-bucket, 1927 Model T Roadster, and 1923 C-Cab delivery.
The name Wintec Fabrication is relatively new on the T-Bucket kits and components scene, but it came to the market with almost two decades of T-Bucket manufacturing experience behind it. According to owner, Jim Wilkos, Wintec was born out of necessity after he heard the news on New Years Eve 2008 that Total Performance, the company he’d worked for since the early ’90s, was being sold to Speedway Motors.
Not long afterward, Jim purchased the Cool-Flex fluid transfer hose business from Total Performance founder, Mickey Lauria. After the trucks from Speedway Motors had emptied out the Total Performance facility and moved everything to Lincoln, Nebraska, the former home of Total and Cool-Flex went on the market and by a combination of coincidence and good luck Jim Wilkos’ operations are now in that same 400 South Orchard Street building in Wallingford, Connecticut.
Jim started the Wintec Fabrication division of Cool-Flex as a manufacturer of a wide variety of universal T-Bucket parts and components such as shock and radius rod mounting brackets, motor and steering box mounts, etc. By the Fall of 2009, Jim felt it was time for Wintec to introduce a signature T-Bucket product. Calling on his many years of customer contact at Total, Jim recognized a void in the market for a truly bigger T-Bucket — not just a bucket stretched a little in the cowl or the door for more legroom, but one that would be able to accomodate more than two people or some significant cargo while still having that great T-Bucket look, rather than the dowdy appearance of the touring cars of that era and some reproductions today that appear to be nothing more than a couple of T-Bucket bodies grafted together.
From past experience, Jim knew that a lot of people interested in a larger T-Bucket thought that all you needed to do was put bigger body on the same frame. But that simply won’t work for a variety of reasons. The new Wintec Roadster had to follow the same comprehensive, coordinated T-Bucket kit theme that had been successfully employed when he was vice president of operations at Total Performance. Thus, the new Wintec Roadster was introduced with a body that stretched 75 inches when measured from firewall to rear, compared to around 48 inches for a regular T-Bucket.
Mounted on a 110 inch wheelbase chassis, this new phantom body offers great proportions and enough flat floor room so that the front seat can be positioned where it is absolutely comfortable for the owner, while still leaving room in back for the kids and/or cargo. “It’s still T-Bucket money, affordable and easy for the first time car builder,” said Jim. “It employs standard, proven components and requires only basic hand tools and a bit of common sense to assemble.”
Following the comprehensive kit theme, Wintec also offers bucket or bomber seat interiors, matching soft tops, windshields, and everything you need to put together a complete Wintec Roadster T-Bucket. “We want to eliminate frustration by supporting the customer with our knowledge and know-how on every part possible,” said Jim. But, that’s not all.
According to Jim, if you’re the owner of one of the 4,000 Total Performance-based kits produced, you can use most of what you already have to convert to the much roomier and more distinctive Wintec Roadster. For around $5,000 you can purchase a new Wintec Roadster body, frame, fuel tank, driveshaft, brake and fuel lines, etc. That investment can be significantly offset when you sell your old body and frame to someone else, while keeping your suspension and other accessory elements on the new roadster.
So, if you have a growing family or you’ve been seeking a lot more room than you can get in even a stretched T-Bucket, check out the new Wintec Roadster. Also, if you’re one of those many guys with a Total Performance T-Bucket and you’re in need of replacement parts there’s a good chance Wintec can provide you with a new part they produce which will fit right into your application.
Founder at TBucketPlans.com
T-Bucket fanatic since 1957 when my 8 year old eyes became glued to a full page LIFE magazine photo of Norm Grabowski in the wildest hot rod I had ever seen! I later discovered the fascinating T-Buckets of TV Tommy Ivo, Marty Hollmann, Bob Johnston and Ed “Big Daddy” Roth’s T-Bucket inspired Outlaw. I was hooked for life on T-Bucket hot rods!
TBucketPlans.com originated in 2005 as a personal blog extolling the virtues of T-Buckets. In 2009 I blogged about Chester Greenhalgh, the "how to" genius who wrote the legendary, out-of-print “How to Build a T-Bucket Roadster for Under $3000”. That led to a friendship with Chester and our partnership in marketing the updated eBook version of his T-Bucket building bible. The T-Bucket fire burns stronger and stronger.
Latest posts by John Morehead (see all)
We Build a Speedway Motors Tribute T-Bucket Kit
When was the last time you built a model car? Do you remember the smell of the glue, the illustrated instructions, the frantic search for that tiny chrome suspension piece you just dropped in the shag carpet—or possibly the dog ate it?
We revisited those memories when we took on the build of a Speedway Motors Tribute T-bucket kit. Speedway Motors in Lincoln, Nebraska, claims to be America's oldest speed shop (so does "Ohio George's" Speed Shop) and is certainly one of the biggest, offering all kinds of go-fast parts for muscle cars and racers. It offers a comprehensive T-bucket catalog, and with company founder "Speedy Bill" Smith having bought out Mickey Lauria's Total Performance years ago, Speedway is today's largest supplier of T kits. The company offers a number of variations on the '27 Ford and the '23-styled bucket. All of 'em offer an affordable, easy way to build your first hot roadster.
The Tribute T is the most hot-roddy option, reflecting what we might call the rat rodtype, East Coast look—meaning a channeled body over a lengthened frame, Z'd in the rear for a look that's long and low. The more traditional stance of a T-bucket is high and with taller windshields, shorter wheelbases, and bodies with the stock dimensions. The Tribute T is cooler by today's standards and has an extended body length for extra legroom, along with a 108-inch wheelbase that does more than just look good—it also improves handling and ride quality, an area where most buckets could use some help.
For $3,999.99, the Tribute kit includes the fiberglass, '23-style body and a steel frame with 112x3-inch 'rails, a front spring, a front axle, spindles, radius rods, front friction shocks, a reversed Corvair steering box, and a brake master cylinder with the mounting bracket and pedal. But as every disappointed, model-building eight-year-old finds out on Christmas, everything else is not included. However, Speedway offers everything you'll need to complete the car, from the 9-inch rearend to headlights. We made some deviations from Speedway's recommended components, some based on style preferences and some based on what we had lying around the garage. Isn't that what hot rodding's all about?
We attempted to cram the whole car together in three days, and while a lot happened in those 72 hours, it took another three weeks of tinkering here and there to get it finished. In an attempt to stay out of each other's way during the initial thrash, each HOT ROD staffer took on a different portion of the assembly. Building a kit car is basically the same at any size: we had to sand and paint parts, dress the engine, wire the interior, and snap the wheels on. It took a little more time than your average 1:25-scale, but we'd still rate it at a difficulty level of 2 (out of 10), good for ages 14 and up. The best part about the Speedway kit? We actually get to drive it when it's done. Good thing, because our display shelves were getting crowded.
Just as on a model kit, the first step to building the T-bucket involved painting or coating all the parts. The frame comes in bare metal, so we spray-painted it black. For a pop of color, we had the Coker 16-inch steelies powdercoated red by Embee Performance, then matched our body paint to the powdercoating. High on his success with the Apr. '13 cover car ("Paint Party"), Jesse Kiser grabbed the leftover supplies, set up a booth in Car Craft Staff Editor John McGann's garage, and started spraying. Well, first he started sanding.
The bucket body came in gelcoat, and the areas that needed to be addressed were the small lines of raised fiberglass left from the manufacturing process—the parting lines. The guys used 220-grit dry paper to quickly knock down the edges, then scuffed the entire body with 400-grit, then Scotch-Brite pads. It's important to have a good seal between the paint and bare fiberglass, so Jesse and John were careful not to cut through the gelcoat while sanding. Working on fiberglass isn't too different from preparing a metal body. Experts advised that as long as the body was prepped well with crosshatched sanding, we shouldn't need anything but primer, but they also said an adhesive promoter wouldn't hurt, and for $20 for a can, it seemed like smart insurance.
After sanding, the guys wiped the body with Eastwood PRE, then lint-free tach cloths. The Bulldog adhesive promoter went on like spray paint. Jesse did three coats, waiting about 15 minutes between each one. Because red is one of the most transparent topcoat colors, he put on two coats of light grey polyprimer. Laying on red means many coats and a lot of product coming out of the gun. We had a half-gallon of red custom-mixed from the local paint store, and that was more than enough to cover the body and grille shell with four coats of paint, which was topped with three coats of clear gloss from Summit Racing. A T-bucket body is pretty simple, but don't forget to spray the inside of the cowl and the insides of the body, dash, and reverse angles, like the top of the doors. Our results weren't bad, with less orange peel than we expected and only a few runs down by the bottom of the car, which we hope will be hidden by the gas tank and/or color-sanded and rubbed out.
During the time the body was at paint, our tech center manager, Grant Peterson, prepped the frame. The front suspension uses a transverse leaf spring like on an early Ford but mounted suicide style (ahead of the crossmember rather than under it, and with the spring behind the axle), along with a 4-inch-dropped I-beam axle with wishbones. The spring mount comes set up on the frame from Speedway, as do the steering and brake-pedal brackets and the pad for the reversed Corvair steering box (the standard for T-buckets since Corvairs were new). Grant welded the brackets for the motor mounts, tacked a couple nuts into the frame for the headlight mounts, and made taillight brackets on the rear crossmember. You could bolt the headlight and taillight mounts to the frame if you can't weld, but Grant likes welding. He pulled out a drill and tap to make locations on the frame for the body-mount bolts, the line clamps for the brake lines, and the gas-tank bracket mounts.
While Grant worked on the frame, Thom Taylor took the painted bucket and started drilling holes in it. If you want to learn how to wire a car, there's no better platform than a T-bucket. Its stripped-down nature means you won't get tangled up in steering columns, electric windows, fuel injection, or power cowl vents. What you will be doing is wiring basic ignition, charging, and lighting systems.
For our Tribute T, we started with a 12-circuit harness assembly from Speedway. It ended up being overkill for our needs, as it had provisions for numerous accessories as well as the ability to wire in a steering column with warning flashers, turn signals, and a horn. We were going simple—as in, make it start, charge the battery, and turn on head- and taillights. It took time to separate out what we would and would not be using, but we took our time before cutting anything out. Think thrice and cut once.
The advantage to the prebuilt harness was that every wire was identified for its intended purpose right on the wire itself. The other positive is that certain circuits are "hot" right out of the fuse box, and things like the horn relay are built in, so you don't need to mount an accessory panel or other items that can clutter up the area under the dash. However, if you plan to build something basic, we'd suggest opting for a street rodtype fuse box, different-color wire spools, and various ends to do the job from scratch. It would have been quicker, looked a bit cleaner under the dash, and been a little easier to deal with less wires and circuits.
Because we were starting out with a Ford engine, we kept it all Ford by utilizing a separate solenoid for starting and a single-wire Ford alternator. Circuits were splayed out and zip-tied, then temporarily secured to the car. Circuits going to the same general areas were tied to each other and then trimmed and attached to the various components. The wires running between the head and intake going to the alternator, coil, and gauge sending units were covered in protective flexible tubing, which looks clean and unobtrusive. We want passersby to check out the dual carbs and overall vibe, not the candy-cane wires peeking out from the engine.
Our grouped wires were zip-tied and then attached to the frame where necessary with Adel clamps with self-tapping screws for a nice, tidy appearance. After a double-check, we connected the battery and cranked the engine. No blown fuses, sparks, or fires meant we were good to go. We cut out the wires we were now sure we wouldn't use and capped each of them so the exposed ends would not ground-out or spark.
Up to this point, we'd been using lovely, brand-new parts from Speedway, but it was time to get dirty. The history of the T-bucket is all about going fast for cheap; a guy throws an engine he's got lying around in the lightweight frame and chopped body, then heads out to find a race. Our Ford 302 and auto trans were leftovers from our '68 Ranchero project, but they weren't original to that car. The small-block turned out to be an '85 H.O. 5.0L mated to an FMX automatic. Nothing to write home about power-wise, but the bucket weighs like half of a real car. Even a tired small-block should make it move pretty good, but, first, we had to make it look good.
Considering it came out of the Ranchero looking like a vaguely engine-shaped oil spill, just cleaning it was an improvement. We blocked off the intake and ports and got to scraping. Underneath the grime, the 302 was red, but not color-matched to our wheels, so we masked it off and sprayed it black with high-temp engine paint. Bam, instant rebuild. Dress it up, and we're ready to install.
The engine came with a serpentine accessory-drive setup, but we only needed to spin the alternator and water pump. Making the switch required swapping to a standard-rotation water pump and matching up a pulley. Ford Racing sells a water pump and pulley set that solved all our problems.
Once we had the belt issue worked out, we moved up the engine to the wires. Don't let two Chevy guys and a Mopar girl wire your 5.0; it took us a minute to remember that not only does Ford number the cylinders straight back starting on the passenger side, but the 5.0 has different firing orders depending on whether you have a standard or high-output engine. If you're tackling a block with the wires already removed, you'll have to take a valve cover off, turn the engine, and watch the intakes for the order. Our engine was the H.O. so it took the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 order (the non-H.O. engines use 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8). The rest of the assembly was straightforward. Bolt on the cast-aluminum valve covers, lakes-style headers, four-barrel intake and dual Speedway jugs, and the '80s mill was dressed up for a retro ball.
The nice thing about an open frame is that engine installation is easy. Well, mostly easy. It was tricky positioning the engine and trans into the chassis while maintaining a close gap between the body and back of the engine. The trans crossmember comes welded into the chassis, so we had no choice but to work from there. The side of the steering box ran into the bellhousing area on the engine block, a problem that Grant fixed by grinding a big divot into the block. After that, it was trimming the body and firewall to fit the engine and trans. Minor fitment stuff is to be expected on any custom build, and we didn't lose too much sleep over cutting holes for the shifter, shift linkage, master-cylinder access, and wiring pass-through.
To maintain the retro vibe and keep things as simple as possible, we ordered one of Lokar's automatic-trans shifter kits for the FMX. We followed the directions and bolted on the plate that holds the shifter and shift mechanism, then attached the shift arms and shifter. We had to dig in to the kick-down setup inside the trans, which required dropping the valvebody. It would have been nice if this portion of the installation had been included in the instructions, but after a little Internet detective work and a couple of calls, we figured it out.
Manual-trans fans will be disappointed to hear that Speedway doesn't support the third pedal, but they say it can be done with some extra fabrication and remote master cylinders for both the clutch and the brakes. Speaking of brakes, Speedway doesn't include brakes in the kit but does offer many suggestions for the '37'48 Fordstyle spindles. We used GM-style, 11-inch discs in the front and Ford Racing 11-inch drums in the rear.
We had the body on the frame two or three times to check the fit and before we drilled the mounting holes; cut out access holes for the battery, shifter, and shift arm that slightly intruded into the trans tunnel; and hole-sawed the firewall for the steering column. There were also minor holes drilled for the wiring and to attach the throttle pedal and fuse box to the plywood-reinforced firewall.
Once the body was on, it really started to look like a car, and our to-do list got smaller and more specific: "Put cotter pin on the pitman arm," "zip-tie gas hose," "add coolant." We tightened the lug nuts and checked the suspension travel, such as it is. The T uses friction shocks, that very basic design that predates tubular shocks. If you tighten them too much, you get no movement and a very hard ride. We wanted enough travel that we didn't shake the bolts loose, but not so much that the rear-mounted gas tank would bash against the third member. Brandan gave us a little more room by fabbing up some spacers to set the tank a little higher on the frame.
Start 'Er Up
The first fire of a project car is always an exciting moment. Will it run, or will it really be "first fire"? We were running the Speedway 9 Super 7 carbs—for looks, it must be admitted. A single four-barrel would have offered an easier tuning job. The instructions for the linkage on the dual Speedway carbs said to set the linkage so that the arm is at a 45-degree angle. We began by adjusting the idle-speed screw. When we first fired the car, it was idling high, despite our tuning efforts. We realized the throttle wasn't fully closing. There's a throttle-return spring on the pedal, but we'll be adding an additional one. There are two settings for the accelerator pump—one for summer and one for winter. We found the pushrod wasn't long enough to coax the squirters to work until nearly wide-open throttle. Although not critical on a car this light, a longer pushrod would improve driveability.
Before we could take the bucket on the road, we had to bleed the brakes and set the alignment. Because the brake master cylinder is below the level of the wheel cylinders, we needed to install residual pressure valves. Doing this keeps the fluid from overflowing the master cylinder and makes the brakes much more responsive, but it also adds potential leak points. Grant bench-bled the master cylinder, and then we bled each wheel cylinder, starting with the one farthest from the master cylinder. We had good pedal feel, and the front-disc/rear-drum setup was more than adequate for the tiny car.
Alignment on the T wasn't too complicated. The axle's kingpins determine camber, and those don't change unless you bend the axle. The caster is set by the radius-arm mounting points, which are designed into the chassis. That just leaves toe. You can use a level and a straightedge to mark the position of the leading and trailing edge of the tires on the shop floor and adjust the tie rod until you have just a little bit of toe in. We looked for 11618 of an inch.
Brandan and Grant took the T-bucket on its maiden voyage. As we mentioned before, there's not much suspension travel—about 3 inches of compression before the top of the rear axle hits the gas tank. We looked good going down the road, but Los Angeles highways tend to be more pothole than tarmac, and it was a good thing that the tires on the bucket are so tall. You wouldn't want to go with big-inch wheels and low-profile tires on something like this, at least not if you like your spine. Our old, worn FMX transmission and weak 302 won't win any drag races, but the car is so light that it's still reasonably quick. We might have been at about the limit of passenger capacity as well, considering we had nearly 500 pounds of dude in the car. People must have been smaller in the '20s. But overall, we're happy with the outcome. The car looks retro-hip—if far from era-correct—and has a stance and vibe that doesn't carry the stigma of a fad T of the '70s.
Building model cars as a kid mostly involved waiting for paint to dry, and the fullsize kits require some of the same patience, but the pay-off when you get to drive it out of the garage is way better than sticking it on the mantle. Grab your model glue and go build something. Hot Rod
|Hot Rod Tribute T Price List|
|Chassis and Body|
|715-1800||Frame and body kit||$3,999.99|
|910-31945||Front disc brake kit||294.99|
|820-BZ4811||Walker Z-Series radiator for T-Bucket||799.99|
|900-2000||T grille shell (extra deep)||99.99|
|910-76257||11-gallon Spun Aluminum fuel tank||134.99|
|911-31017||34 Ford commercial headlights||299.99|
|910-61025||Stainless headlight mounts||84.99|
|911-27001||Model A taillights (2)||45.98|
|910-61026||Universal headlight mounts (2) for taillights||39.98|
|916-56231||Short windshield posts||139.99|
|555-22018||Tribute T windshield frame||499.99|
|Rear Axle and Suspension|
|715-1809||Rear suspension kit with 9-inch axle||2,499.99|
|910-48345||Third member assembly||789.99|
|910-31937||Rear drum brake kit||479.99|
|Interior, Steering, and Electrical|
|916-33056||Tribute T steering column||299.99|
|910-70062||Lightened Bomber seats (Pair)||541.98|
|910-70029||Adjustable seat risers (2)||79.98|
|910-32714||12-inch black steering wheel||30.99|
|910-64017||Economy 12-circuit wiring harness||139.99|
|910-65056||Speedway six-gauge set||209.99|
|194-2015||Braille compact battery||159.99|
|950-25083||Aluminum battery box||59.99|
|910-64505||18-foot battery cable kit||64.99|
|Engine and Exhaust|
|910-11275||S/B Ford dual-plane intake manifold||179.99|
|545-63810||S/B Ford low-mount alternator bracket||129.99|
|916-18013||S/B Ford engine-mount crossmember||54.99|
|930-0575||S/B Ford lake-style headers||479.99|
|910-17114||Finned S/B Ford valve covers||106.99|
|910-67156||Ford 1-wire chrome alternator||119.99|
|925-1000||9 Super 7 dual carb kit (adapter, linkage, etc. )||779.99|
|M-8509-DM||Ford Racing billet V-pulleys 1-groove||198.95|
|M-8501-G351||Ford Racing water pump||59.95|
|LOK-ATS6FMXBN||Lokar Nostalgia shifter||259.45|
|N/A||Wheel mount and balance||85.75|
|N/A||Driveshaft, balanced with U joints||343.11|
|72230||Coker Firestone 500-16 ribbed tires (front) pair||340.00|
|62237||Coker Firestone 8.90-16 grooved tires (rear) pair||868.00|
|HRPR16412SM234||Coker Hot Rod Steel 16x4.5-inch rims for hubcaps with 8-inch ID||470.00|
|HRPR166SM334||Coker Hot Rod Steel 16x6-inch rims||246.00|
|62236||Coker tubes rear pair||69.90|
|85363||Coker tubes front pair||18.95|
|211||Coker hubcaps (4)||117.00|
|01A183031||Trim rings (4)||104.00|
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Building a car from scratch takes money, time and good deal of grit, if you actually plan on finishing the thing. Of course, there are places to start that don’t require nearly as much sweat equity.
Detroit Speedcraft, born NEHR Speedcraft in 2008, offers home builders a fiberglass and tube frame “hot rod in a box,” inspired by the old Ford T-buckets. The company’s two main products are the '23 Hot Rod in a Box and the '27 Hot Rod in a Box. The ‘23 will set you back $14,545 and the ‘27 goes for $18,250. That’s no small amount of cash, but Speedcraft’s kits are more than just boxes of bolts.
“Our kits are fully engineered systems,” said co-founder Dave Nedock. “With these other companies, it’s not always about what is included, but what isn’t included.”
What is included in the kit is a pre-assembled roller package, which takes much of the hard engineering work out of the equation for a home builder. Free extras include suspension alignment, a fitted floor, assembled rear brakes, a mounted grille shell, fitted steering shaft, fixed transmission tunnel and fuel lines installed in place. Buyers don’t have to do any welding, any alignment or any driveline vehicle setup, which is a heroic undertaking in its own right. The kit doesn’t include the engine and transmission, drive shaft, gauges and wiring, paint, shifter, lights or a cooling fan.
The company offers a “wired and fired” option that includes the installation of the engine and wiring. In that case, all the buyer has to do is choose a horsepower number and write a check.
Detroit Speedcraft founders Tom Kuhr and Nedock were both bitten by the builder’s bug early. Kuhr discovered his love listening to “Little Deuce Coupe” in the '60s. He worked his way through minibikes and go-karts before getting into the hot rods and the T-bucket kits that he designs and sells today.
Nedock worked for Ford for 30 years in suspension and chassis components before retiring in 2006. He can talk tensile, yield and shear strength of bolts like we talk about sportiest hue of red. Nedock also raced alcohol and funny cars in the '80s and '90s, until he lost his right hand in an accident. You’d think that would hurt an engineer making rolling chassis’ from scratch; you’d be wrong.
Nedock uses a house-built, perfectly square (to the micrometer) bench and a digital protractor to get the alignment, thrust angle and drivetrain angle right on the T-bucket kits. His engineering background allows him to improve the rudimentary formula of the original Ford.
Speedcraft’s kits are “for regular people to drive,” and therefore have long ladder bars for smoother handling, comfortable seats, grab handles for entry and exit as well as a pedal placement that apes the cars of today. Nedock also fabricated a “speed blister” bump in the passenger compartment that adds more foot room.
The kits come in at about 1,850 pounds according to Kuhr. And like we said, the engine is your choice. An LS would probably be a good start.
We took a ride in one of the '23s -- it was planted and exhilarating. We did blow a PCV valve when Nedock was showing off behind the wheel, but we were assured it was an isolated case.
Kuhr says that 90 percent of his buyers finish their kits, most in about six months. He even provided some customer letters to prove it. Speedcraft also provides technical help over the phone, even during off hours.
“If someone needs help at midnight,” said Kuhr. “We’ll be there.”
Go to detroitspeedcraft.com for more information.
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Roadster t kit bucket
Speedway Tribute T-Bucket Kit Car
If you thought all T-buckets were the same, think again! The all-new Speedway Motors Tribute T breaks the T-bucket mold. It offers the traditional look of classic, competition-influenced roadsters combined with modern components and refined engineering. All this in a comfortable package thats easy to assemble using basic hand tools.
The Tribute T frame has an extra-high rearkickup and Model A rear crossmember that will accept our medium-arch rear leaf spring. Rear axle options include our bolt-on Winters quick-change kit7151801, bolt-on 9" Ford rear axle option7151809, or aFord-style banjo rear end of your choice (must be a centered-pinion rear axle). The front suspension uses a 4 inch drop I-beam axle, wishbone-style radius rods and traditional steering with a reversed Corvair steering box. All suspension, steering and brake pedal brackets are pre-welded to the frame and you can choose from flathead Ford V8 or small-block Chevy engine mounts. (Please indicate your engine and transmission application being used in the comments box at checkout.) A special floor allows the Tribute T body to sit a low as possible, while still providing room for ourBomber Seatsorcushionsof your design.
- True old-school appearance
- Extra-low ride height with maximum ground clearance
- Easy to assemble using basic hand tools
- Rugged fiberglass body with floor installed
- Body finished in a white gelcoat (ready for paint preparations)
- 1-1/2" x 3" rectangular steel tube frame
- 3" O.D. round tube front crossmember
- 106" wheelbase for improved ride and handling
- Model A rear crossmember
- Spring-behind front suspension with 4" drop axle and split wishbone radius rods
- 1937-1948 Ford-style spindles will accept disc brakes or early-style drum brakes
- Medium-arch transverse rear leaf spring with specially designed radius rods
- Traditional steering with reversed Corvair steering box
- Rear axle and suspension sold separately
No special handling fees. No extra crating charges.
Rear axle and suspension sold separately.
- Front Spring, Axle, Spindles, Radius Rods
- Front Friction Shocks
- Reversed Corvair Steering Box
- Master Cylinder, Bracket, Pedal
- Tribute T Body
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